UNCOVERING THE TREASURE OF NORMAN ISLAND ABOARD A CATAMARAN CHARTER

With tales of pirates, discovery of 3 chests of buried treasure, and perhaps the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s, Treasure Island, legend plays a large part of the history of Norman Island. One of the southern islands of the BVI chain, Norman Island lies close to the international boundary line separating the BVI from the USVI. Located just 7 miles south of Tortola, it is a traditional first day easy sail for those on a catamaran charter. Norman Island is only 2 ½ miles long with a central ridge that rises to Norman Hill 427’ above sea level. No one lives here except a handful of goats that forage on the steep slopes. And yet, for those seeking a sense of adventure, Norman Island does indeed offer a treasure of unspoiled beauty in its rugged shoreline and several safe bays, as well as a memorable underwater world in its caves and offshore reefs. Set sail aboard your catamaran charter and come uncover the treasure of Norman Island.

The Bight

One of the most popular anchorages in the BVI, as well as one of the most spacious in the region is the Bight. The topographical meaning of the word, “bight” is an indentation in a coast so wide that it may be sailed out of on one tack in any wind. Although the wind tends to funnel down through the hills, giving the impression that the weather is heavier than it is, the Bight is a well-protected, sheltered anchorage. There are many mooring buoys in place to be picked up for the night. Once you are settled in, it is time to explore with your dinghy.

Most people on a catamaran charter end up at Treasure Point and the Caves at the lower tip of the Bight for snorkeling. You can tie up your dinghy on the line strung between two small round floats. Lending to the legend of buried treasure, the Caves (which drop off to 40’ near their entrance) are only 4’ deep. Typically explored by snorkeling, the variety of tropical fish, brightly colored coral and sponge encrusted walls make this a fascinating place to visit. The southernmost cave has a rounded rock bottom on which to stand, underneath a natural skylight.

“And thereupon we entered the cave. It was a large, airy place with a little spring and a pool of clear water, overhung with ferns. The floor was sand.” (Robert Louis Stevenson, “Treasure Island”).

This is a good place to take photos from the inside, but watch for the surge. The middle cave is deeply indented into the rock face. The northernmost cave stretches back about 70 feet. It gets very dark, so make sure to bring an underwater flashlight or you will miss the deep veins of color on the walls above the waterline. Underwater, it is like a night dive, with coral tentacles reaching out to feed. At the end of the cave is a small room. Look for secret markings on the cave walls and the buried treasure could be yours!

After cave exploring, you may be hungry, and the Bight offers your choice of two restaurants. The first is the William Thornton Floating Bar and Restaurant. Affectionately called the “Willie T”, this replica of a 93’ top-sailed schooner is named after BVI native, William Thornton II, the designer of the US Capital. Established in June 1985, this one of a kind “bistro on the briny” can probably take credit for some of the popularity of the Bight, because of the stories of many wild nights of partying aboard. With a casual ambiance, there is always a big lunch crowd and things really start jumping in the afternoon. Usually there are dozens of dinghies and day sailboats tied off her dock on the portside of the ship and owner and bartender, Ewan and Zeus usually raft the Wet Willy supply boat on the starboard side. Prior to 2006, when an accident put an end to the “official” practice, folks of all ages would enjoy jumping off the poop deck atop the bar area. Many of the young ladies took up the offer of a free “Willie T” t-shirt if they jumped naked, which would always draw a crowd of enthusiastic supporters. Today, it still gets pretty rowdy with ski shots and body shots heating up the bar later in the day. If you are looking for something a little more tame and family oriented, head to Pirate’s Bar and Restaurant on the southeastern corner of the Bight, where you will find a nice beach with picnic tables and a dinghy dock for your convenience. They offer great food for lunch and dinner, and the best Bushwhacker in the BVI. Good snorkeling is available over the sea grass or on the reef at the south end of the beach.

While ashore, tale a hike on the dirt track from the beach by Pirates to the top of Norman Hill, a/k/a Spy Glass Hill. This hill was used by pirates to keep a lookout for treasure galleons. You will have a spectacular 360° panoramic view of the Sir Frances Drake Channel and surrounding areas. Be sure to wear shoes because the vegetation is rough and scratchy.

On the North Coast of Norman Island, there are two additional anchorages that are quiet nice provided the wind conditions are right. They are well-protected when the wind is from the south, but they should be avoided when the winds move to the north-especially during the winter months. Although both tranquil and out of the mainstream of catamaran traffic, there is limited anchoring room. The larger and more protected bay is Benures Bay. Anchor off the northeastern pebble beach in about 20’ of water. The bottom is sand, so the holding is excellent. There is great snorkeling at the western end of the bay. If you go ashore, there is a nice hike over the hill to Money Bay for a good snorkel or dive. Soldier Bay can only accommodate 1-2 vessels. It is an ideal anchorage in the summer months when the wind is light and the trade winds are blowing from the southeast. Holding is good and the snorkeling is excellent.

On the other side of the island from the Bight, there is a whole different world of unspoiled, rugged beauty in a secluded setting of cliffs and surf. Tucked away on the south shore of Norman Island, on the eastern end of the second bay to the west of the headland, those on a catamaran charter will find idyllic little Money Bay that can be used as an overnight anchorage or a daytime stop. Care needs to be taken in getting into Money Bay. Since you are on a leeward shore, the sea conditions will reflect that they have traveled unbroken over 100 miles. In addition, although there is plenty of depth in the anchorage, there is a reef that extends from the entrance of the bay to the beach. Once inside, there is a sandy bottom to set anchor, but you will probably want to use a stern anchor or second anchor as well to keep your bow to the wind for a more comfortable stay.

On the lee tip of Pelican Island, you will find Rainbow Canyons. This is a great site for novice divers, as well as a fine snorkeling spot in the shallow areas. Explore the spur and groove reefs by following the sand canyons.

Just east of Benures Bay is Spy Glass – named after the pirate lookout. This dive site is one of the best mini-walls in the BVI. Dropping from 20’ to 60’, the wall is covered with purple tube sponges and little holes filled with small fish. You will also see large coral heals in the shallows and eagle rays swimming in the blue water.

Located in front of the northern tip of the Bight is Ringdove Rock. This sea mount is not a snorkeling site. You will need to use a dive flag as the location is in a traffic lane to the Bight. Around its gorgonian-covered base, explore the honeycombed coral heads for moray eels and lobsters. The sand canyons are like a sea garden. The rock walls are a good place to see sergeant majors guarding their purple egg masses.

A short way past the Caves is Sandy’s Ledge in Privateer Bay – just 150’ off the beach. The top of the ledge is in 6 feet of water. In this snorkel and dive spot, look for long lure frogfish, eagle rays and turtles, and miniature coral heads with tiny fish inside.

Past Sandy’s Ledge at Norman Island’s southwestern tip, is the continuation of the rocky point into the sea. The radiating ridges that lead out to a maze of narrow canyons is know as Angelfish Reef. Abundant fish, including the shy Queen Angelfish, along with the French variety, thrive here. This is a good site for divers or advanced snorkelers.

On rugged Norman Island, a sense of adventure still hangs in the air. Uninhabited and largely untamed, this island is only accessible by boat, and yet those on a catamaran charter sail here every day to uncover its treasures- both obvious and hidden. Contact www.visailing.com to discover for yourself why Norman Island has drawn adventurers, explorers and yes, even pirates for hundreds of years.