TORTOLA: THE BEGINNING OF A CATAMARAN CHARTER ADVENTURE!

The Spanish named it “land of the turtle doves” for its shape and beauty. For anyone that has had a chance to visit the largest island in the BVI chain while on a catamaran charter, they would agree that Tortola is aptly named. From its spectacular beaches, to its protected anchorages, to the incredible

The Scenic Drives

A really incredible way to experience the breathtaking beauty of Tortola is to simply drive around. The sheer descents, hairpin turns, and driving on the left make driving on Tortola an adventure in itself. For the less adventuresome, hire a taxi. The fares are reasonable, and the friendly drivers provide a wealth of local knowledge. There are basically two main roads in Tortola. One follows the mountain ridges and the other the coast with many smaller tributaries spilling off of them- most notably, the North Coast Road.

The spectacular Ridge Road, with its breathtaking views, follows the central spine of Tortola. An ever changing terrain of ridges and valleys appear in succession as the road follows the contour line of the central range- dipping through “ghuts” or stream valleys and ascending slopes to reach the next peak. Vistas show peaks from Tortola’s ocean headlands and outlying islands of Great Camanoe and Guana Island. The scenic drive slowly wraps around the “amphitheater” created by Road Town Harbour. The islands across the Sir Frances Drake Channel can be seen in the distance. The most level part of the road is at the top of the mountain where you will see Tortola’s rural and pastoral culture. A turn-off goes down to Cane Garden Bay and still further on, another turn-off goes up to Mt. Sage National Park. Ridge Road finally dips to the North Beach Coast.

The Coastal Road snakes along the outer perimeter of the southern shore along Tortola’s Sir Frances Drake Channel from the Beef Island airport on the East End to Soper’s Hole on the West End, connecting several charming rural communities in between. The route is split in two sections by Road Town in the middle. Blackburn’s Highway is the section from East End. It passes Fat Hog’s Bay, Maya Cove and other bays over a series of ridges looking out to Virgin Gorda. The route then comes into Road Town where it is called Waterfront Drive. The section past Road Town is called Drake’s Highway. Passing the nautical village of Nanny Cay, this is the flattest and low-lying stretch of road on Tortola. You will enjoy picturesque views to the other islands across the Sir Frances Drake Channel. A turn-off at Zion Hill Road leads to the North Beach Coast, but if you continue on, you will reach Soper’s Hole.

The dramatic North Beach Coast Road takes you to the finest beaches and greatest surfing sites on Tortola. The road offers panoramic views of Cane Garden Bay before descending steeply to this beautiful and popular anchorage. It then ascends out of Cane Garden Bay through woods to Windy Hill. The route then drops again into Great Carrot Bay, a coastal fishing village. This area is known for its incredible cloud formations as the trade winds lift over Tortola’s mountainous spine, often dropping localized rain showers and sprouting brilliant rainbows. The road continues past several bays. At this point, the route is called Long Bay Road for its panoramic views of Long Bay Beach. The road continues to climb to Belmont Point, where you will find the entrance to cozy Smuggler’s Cove and the end of this road.

The Main Settlements

Another thing to do is explore the three main settlement areas on Tortola, namely, Road Town, West End and East End.

The majority of the island’s inhabitants live in Road Town, either downtown, along the outskirts, or in the hills above the harbour. The capital is brimming with restaurants, shops and is the site for the hospital, government administration offices and official Governor’s house. The large, beautiful harbour at Road Town has for centuries provided shelter for fleets of English, Dutch, Spanish and French ships. Today, it is a busy center of island life and marine activity with charter boats, cruise and cargo ships. The inner harbour is formed by two large island jetties. Wickman’s Cay on the right adjoins the Main Street area, while Wickham’s Cay II on the left comprises the Moorings charter complex. Running parallel to the water is the somewhat touristy Waterfront Drive with its bars, restaurants, shops and markets. A few steps to the west, you will find picturesque Main Street lined with brightly painted 200 year old wooden and stone buildings- a peep into the BVI’s architectural past. The many historic buildings and churches, charming cafes and curio shops cater mostly to locals. It is a great place to look for local arts and crafts, handcrafted jewelry, clothing and silk-screened fabrics, as well as local spices, jams and rum.

The west end of the island, with its main settlement, West End, is home to Tortola’s resorts, an abundance of excellent beaches and fun night life including the infamous full moon parties at Bomba’s Shack. Many people on a catamaran charter take the ferry to and from St. Thomas and go through BVI customs at West End. Across the ferry dock is a popular anchorage called Soper’s Hole with its charming West Indian architecture. Soper’s Hole has a quaint collection of shops and restaurants, as well as the beautiful Harbour Market. This market has a large selection, good prices, deli and gourmet items, as well as general provisions for chartering.

National Parks

The BVI National Parks Trust currently manages 17 national parks. These include 16 land parks and 1 marine park (the Wreck of the Rhone). Four of the national parks are found right on Tortola.

Mount Healthy National Park is located above Brewer’s Bay. The park was the site of the original Anderson Estate, a sugar plantation dating back to 1798. The ruins of the Mount Healthy windmill are the only one of its kind remaining in the BVI. The windmill was used to crush sugar cane and produce cane juice for rum production. Nearby, there are other remains believed to be from the boiling house and Overseer’s Quarters. The park overlooks the north shore of Tortola.

The J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens are located on the site of the old Agricultural Experiment Station, where food crops and other plants were grown experimentally and for propagation for almost 100 years. Named after the territory’s leading conservationist, the gardens offer a delightful haven from the hustle and bustle of Road Town. Visitors will find over 62 species of palms, an impressive cacti collection, and an excellent display of rainforest flora.

Queen Elizabeth II National Park is located on the seaward side of McNamara Road in Road Town. This park is an attractive place for relaxation and recreation. The park is actually divided into 2 parts: a playground and a grassy lawn fringed by native trees. It is a popular place for picnics. On the eastern end of the park are the remains of the 19th century Customs building.

Historical Sites

Stories of sugar plantations, slavery, pirates and a deep history of fishing and farming all played a role in the cultural heritage of the BVI. There are many historical sites to be seen on Tortola which allow those on a catamaran charter to have a greater appreciation of how the BVI played such an important role in the Caribbean’s history. Following are some of the historic sites that can be viewed:

• Fort Burt: This fort once guarded the mouth of Road Harbour. It was constructed by the Dutch and later rebuilt in 1776 by the English, who annexed the islands in 1672. It was named after William Burt, Governor of the Leeward Islands. Originally 20’ above sea level, the site offers breathtaking views of Road Harbour and surrounding islands. Although now it is the site of a hotel and restaurant, the foundations, magazines and cannons remain.
• The Dungeon: This fort is located halfway between Road Town and West End. It was built in 1794 by the Royal Engineers and housed a garrison of soldiers responsible for protecting the islands. It was named, “The Dungeon” because of its underground cells where 18th century etchings can be seen.
• Fort Recovery: Located at the west end of Tortola, this is the BVI’s oldest intact structure. A turreted gun emplacement with 3’ thick walls, it was built by the Dutch in 1660.
• The William Thornton Estate: This plantation was the birthplace of one of Tortola’s most famous sons. Architect William Thornton prepared his first plans for the new US Capital building here. Low stone walls are all that remain of the home. They can be seen by the side of the road at Pleasant Valley.
• The Church of Kingstown: Just east of Road Town, you will find this roofless church. This is all that remains of a community of freed slaves established in 1833.
• Old Government House and Museum: The former governor’s residence was built in the early 1920’s. Completely refurbished, this national landmark is open for tours in Road Town.
• Callwood Rum Distillery: Located in Cane Garden Bay in an old stone plantation building, this 18th century rum distillery is still operational and looks much like it did several hundred years ago. The original boiler still operates and produces rum which is stored in the original storage casks. Samples are available for purchase. The old guard house is also intact.
• Main Street: In addition to serving as Road Town’s main shopping district, Main Street contains several historical landmarks, including the Post Office (built in the mid 1800’s), St. Phillips Anglican Church (constructed in 1840 and said to be the first church built for liberated Africans in all the Americas) and the Virgin Island’s Folk Museum( which houses a collection of artifacts from the Amerindian and plantation periods and the wreck of the RMS Rhone which sank off Salt Island in a 1867 hurricane).
• The Sunday Morning Well: This landmark symbolizes where the emancipation proclamation was read in 1834.

Although not a ruin, the Great Wall on Ridge Road creates an outside gallery depicting the cultural history of the BVI. Also known as the Fahie Hill Mural, this community art project features the work of a group of local artists headed by Rueben Vanterpool. Topics on the mural include market day, fishing, cutting sugar cane, baking, heritage dancers, wash day, donkeys carting sand, moonlight crabbing and landscape scenes. There are contributions by Quito Rhymer, Cedric Turnbull, Pearl Friday, Thor Downing, Dean “Ghost” Smith and Garth Hewlette.

The Beaches

A visitor on a catamaran charter simply cannot go to Tortola and miss a beach experience! From the eastern end of Tortola to the west end, there are many sensational beaches along the north shore. These beaches are some of the best in the Caribbean, offering unspoiled beauty and miles of sand. Most beaches on Tortola deepen gradually and have light surf, allowing for a pleasant swim, however, always observe any signs and ask someone before you wade in since some of the beaches have an undertow. Some of the beaches offer beach shops, restaurants and lots of activity, while others are extremely private and tranquil. Here are just some to enjoy:

• Long Bay –Beef Island: Just minutes from the airport, this is a long, curved stretch of beach that is one of the more secluded and little-used beaches.
• Elizabeth Beach: Also know as Lambert Beach, this is a very long beach with moderate surf and less clear water than several of the other beaches. It is the widest beach on Tortola, providing sun-worshippers plenty of room to stretch out and enjoy the view. It is a favorite picnic spot for locals because of its sheltering palms and fine white sand. Lunch and dinner is available at the hotel. Green turtles nest on the beach in January and February.
• Josiah’s Bay: This beach on Tortola’s east end has a long and wide swath of sand that makes it ideal for sunbathing. At certain times in the winter, when the waves reach their optimum peak, this becomes a popular surfer’s beach. There is a small bar on the beach, as well as a restaurant nearby.

• Brewer’s Bay: Once the site of several sugar plantations and distilleries (hence the name), this developed beach is just around the eastern point from Cane Garden Bay. Ruins can be seen on the beach. The sand is dark gold and is the only non-white sand beach on the island. The water offers some of the best snorkeling on the island because of the many reefs.
• Cane Garden Bay: Centrally located on Tortola’s north shore, this is a favored anchorage for those on a catamaran charter because it is long, curved and sheltered from heavy winds. This ¾ mile beach is the most popular, populated and touristy of the beaches. Some of Tortola’s most popular bars and restaurants line the beach and nightly island music can be heard at many of these spots.
• Apple Bay: Although not a great spot for swimming, this beach is known for its surfing and partying. On any day in season, you can see dozens of surfers from all over the world. The bay is also known for its wild full moon parties at Bomba’s Surfside Shack.
• Long Bay-West End: Not to be confused with Long Bay-East End, this easily accessible beach is at the western end of Tortola. It is a mile-long stretch of white sand, perfect for a tranquil walk or to watch the sunset. A resort and several restaurants sit back from the beach on the eastern side. The western side, fringed by palms and sea grapes, offers greater solitude and good swimming.
• Smuggler’s Cove: Located at the western-most tip of Tortola, this hard to reach beach is secluded, sheltered and serene. The water is exceptionally warm, clear and calm. There is good snorkeling off both points and sea turtles can sometimes be seen.

Other Activities

While Tortola has many things you would expect from one of the Virgin Islands, like snorkeling and scuba diving, it also has a host of other great things to do. As the largest island, Tortola is the center of the BVI’s cultural program. Throughout the year there are events that highlight its rich culture like music festivals, regattas, poetry readings, beauty pageants, carnivals, arts/crafts festivals and food festivals. Other fun things to do include:

• Dolphin Discovery: Although touristy, Tortola is one of 7 locations in Hawaii, the Caribbean and Mexico that offers an interactive experience to swim and encounter these highly intelligent and friendly marine mammals.
• Surfing and Body Boarding: Surf’s up from November to March, but good waves can sometimes be found earlier/later in the year depending on weather conditions. The most popular surf spots are Apple, Cane Garden and Josiah’s bays. If you prefer body boarding, you will not miss out. All of the surf beaches have a wide break, providing plenty of space for surfers and body boarders alike.
• Hiking and Cycling: There are many opportunities for hiking and biking on Tortola. Sage Mountain National Park alone has 7 hiking trails. The BVI Cycling Club has an active season and is always welcoming to race participants. If you prefer to take a more leisurely ride, there are bike rentals available.
• Horses: Horseback riding is a great way to explore the mountains in the National Park. Shadow’s Stables on Ridge Road offers riders through Sage Mountain National Park. The owner, Elton “Shadow” Parsons, is descended from a long line of local farmers who tilled the land where the stables now stand. His knowledge of local history and funny stories makes him an excellent guide. Into something more exhilarating? There is a horse racing track in Tortola and the competition is fierce!
• Fishing: The waters around Tortola are known for incredible fishing. Hook into trophy marlin or Wahoo, or fly fish for world-class bonefish or tarpon. Local guides always know where the fish are biting.
• Windsurfing: Home of HiHo brand clothing, Tortola offers world-class windsurfing. Trellis Bay boasts some of the best windsurfing on the islands. The channel between calm Trellis Bay and Marina Cay is a world-class windsurfing “gorge” with 3-5’ wave faces from the effect of the trade winds against the ripping 2-3 knot current. This represents most excellent boardsailing conditions, dude! Trellis Bay is also a good place to learn how to windsurf or try kite boarding.

Of course, after any fun-filled day, you are sure to have developed an appetite. The cuisine of Tortola reflects the island’s rich cultural mix. Local delicacies include fresh lobster, conch, spicy goat, curries, Johnny cakes, spices, and rum. Seafood, steaks and vegetarian dishes are available with a Caribbean flair. Many styles of dining are offered on Tortola, from four-star dinners in converted sugar mills to delicious rotis and snacks at pastel-painted roadside shacks. Whatever and however you choose to dine, your meals on Tortola will be memorable.

Tortola, with a population of around 20,000 is the commercial and cosmopolitan center of the BVI. And yet, Tortola remains an easy-going destination. The people of Tortola are friendly, laid-back and known for their warmth and hospitality. The island is one of contrasts- from the warm, clear blue waters; powdery sand beaches; lush green mountains; sheltered yacht-filled harbours, and centuries-old ruins to the bustle of Road Town; you will find it all on Tortola. Although this largest island in the chain is an ideal point from which to explore the other British Virgin Islands on your catamaran charter, Tortola offers a variety of exciting vacation possibilities. Contact www.visailing.com to book your catamaran charter and discover why Tortola is the sailing capital of the Caribbean’s most popular cruising destination.