Cruising the Spanish Virgin Islands

In cruising terms, the waters of the Virgin Islands in the Caribbean could be said to be the most crowded in the world yet just ten miles down wind from St. Thomas in the USVI are a group of islands that cruisers have forgotten and bareboaters have yet to find, writes Michael Howorth.

		The Spanish Virgin Islands or Passage Islands are a group of Islands and reefs which lie fifteen miles to the east of Fajardo on Puerto Rico. For many years they have been off limits to cruising yachts because they lay within territory reserved for the United States Navy which used the Islands for war games and bombing practice.

Whilst it is still possible to find both man made and natural shells on the beaches, nowadays the islands are, for the most part, open to visitors and are awaiting rediscovery

The Group covers an area of 400 square miles and consists of two main islands Culebra and Vieques together with some twenty smaller outlying islands. They are all considered to be part of the commonwealth of Puerto Rico. Like Puerto Rico, Columbus discovered them on his second voyage west in 1493. They eventually became a colony of Spain and were ceded by them to the USA in the treaty of Paris 1898.

The cruising area can be divided into three separate locations, La Cordillera, Culebra together with its islands and Vieques. Each has its merits and attractions and it would be unwise in planning a comprehensive cruise not to include each area.

La Cordillera This twelve mile chain of small islands and reefs stretches from a point just a mile or so off NE Puerto Rico southeastwards and is part of Puerto Rico’s East Coast Marine Reserve. Diving and snorkeling here is nothing short of fantastic and good anchorage’s can be obtained during winter months in the lee of the easterly trade winds. However Northerly swells and winds in excess of 15 knots can restrict the use of these Cays to that of a day anchorage only.

Some of these islands are privately owned some have facilities leased by local hotels but cruisers are welcome providing privacy is respected. There are mooring buoys in the area but even if these are intended for the use of local dive boats, no one seems to mind if you tie a dinghy to them so as to enjoy the beauty of the reef. None of these little islands offer anything in the way of supplies or services to visiting yachts, so make sure you bring your own.

Culebra and off lying Islands
There are enough anchorages on this island and its small satellites to keep a serious cruiser going for weeks. There is a quiet and roll free anchorage at the head of Ensenada Honda just off the main town of Culebra sometimes called Dewey but more often or not just named after the island. The lagoon is the obvious choice as a hurricane hole but its reputation has been somewhat tarnished since Culebra took the full force of Hurricane Hugo in 1989. The town, which was all but flattened by Hugo, is a delightful blend of Caribbean shanty and Spanish cultures. The centerpiece of which is the red and white lifting bridge, which spans the narrow boat canal. The bridge is rumored to have lifted just once, on its day of inauguration some thirty odd years ago. It became stuck and remained in the open position for several days trapping cars on one side or another. The engineers finally managed to return the bridge to the closed position where it has remained ever since! There are several small bars and restaurants, which appear to open or remain, closed at their owner’s whim. Nothing seems to happen very fast here! The great thing is that because every thing is centered on the harbor and canal, getting around by dinghy is very easy. Most essential things are available so long as you have a healthy dose of patience. After the bustle of the US Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico it is really rather refreshing.

Dakity Harbor is at the Southern end of the sound an idyllic anchorage protected from the swells by a pristine reef ideal for snorkeling upon. Further east is another anchorage so perfect as to appear in every cruisers top ten once they have visited it. Called Bahia de Almodovar, it is a tricky one to enter drawing, anything over eight feet but once inside the rewards are spectacular. Clear blue water over a white sand bottom protected by a reef ensures another marina quality anchorage, even when the prevailing wind is blowing a steady twenty knots.

Of all the off lying Islands Culebrita is the largest and my favorite. For the most part it is deserted. Things did get crowded one day however when another boat anchored half a mile away! Scuba diving is our great relaxation when cruising on our own and here we found plenty to do. The waters of these islands are a divers dream; they are truly virgin reefs! We dived in the company of turtles, rays and some enormous amberjacks. The lobster season is open all the year round in these islands and the joy of catching your own Caribbean clawless lobster and plopping it on to a beach BBQ has to be tried before the true meaning of the word pleasure is learned. There is a small lighthouse atop this rocky island and an early morning climb is highly rewarding. The view of other anchorage’s and islands, yet to be visited, is like watching an animated navigational chart. Truly spectacular!

Vieques and the Navy Ranges
For much of the past century access to this island has been severely restricted by the US navy who have used it as weapons training area. Now as life gets a little more sensitive to this sort of thing, matters are becoming more relaxed and yachtsmen can visit the island with permission of the navy when they announce the range to be “not hot.” Approaching the island it is obvious that the navy are keeping a watchful eye using radar and if the range is hot one is very courteously encouraged to return on another day. If you do not hear them it is wise to call the range by VHF but if still nothing further is heard you may proceed secure in the knowledge that your bow will not get blown away. There are many wonderful anchorages’s here and Vieques also boasts an Ensenada Honda, which is amongst the prettiest of them. Bahia Salinas del Mar is another “must see”. One anchorage that it is not possible for mortals to visit is called Roosevelt Roads, a Navy controlled port, whose only visiting yachts are those commanded by US or retired US Navy officers. I am told, by one who knows however, that the anchorage’s only real attraction is the ability to restock on provisions at the navy commissary.

There is a useful anchorage in the civilian, Western, end of the island off the town of Esperanza. Here one anchors off town protected by an off lying cay and a peninsular of land. Dinghy trips ashore are rewarded by a selection of good local restaurants, bars and shops for essential supplies. The is a good dive shop and in the next door bay, a yellow sand beach, lined with palm trees is known locally as Sunbay. A great day to spend the day of rest! Cruising in the Spanish Virgin Islands certainly does give one the impression of what life must have been like throughout the Caribbean some thirty or forty years ago. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there. We found the people friendly and helpful were they were able to be. Customs regulations were somewhat laid back and relaxed. Arriving from the US Virgins it is important to check in with the authorities and obtain a cruising permit. The official currency is the US dollar and both English and Spanish are spoken and understood. Ice fuel and water are all available but not always easy to obtain when and where you might wish.

There are some local laundries. We found an adequate telephone system and a small airport provides a regular air ferry service to Puerto Rico. Fresh vegetables can be a little sparse and we would advise that a good stock of fresh produce should be brought with the visiting yacht after that, one relies on impulse shopping when green leaves are spotted at road side stalls! Visit these islands for their natural beauty, tranquillity and the diving. Fine food restaurants and noisy nighttime entertainment simply can not be found here.

	Getting there For those not sailing there on your own cruising yacht, Bareboats and Crewed Yachts are available out of St Thomas, USVI. Should you wish to sample the delights of the Spanish Virgin Islands without the trouble of sailing there, then there is an ample supply of ferry services linking the East coast of Puerto Rico to Culebra and even a small airline offering several flights a day.

Once on Culebra a small selection of budget hotels and guesthouses can accommodate the boat less tourist and companies offering day or overnight charters can be found on the island. Many crewed yacht charter holidays are available from any of the better Charter yacht brokers.

Note: This was written in 1989. The Navy is no longer on Vieques and the whole island is open to yachtsman.