The One Thousand or so Maldive Islands are the ultimate in hedonistic destinations for dedicated worshippers of the Triple Crown of Sun, Sand and Sea, where the only activities available are in, on and, under the water.
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If the Wild West was America’s final frontier then the Maldive Islands hold the same distinction in the world of cruising. We dropped the anchor in 40 feet clear blue water on pristine white sand. Looking around it was hard to believe that any boat had ever been here before. We felt rather like settlers to the Wild West coast of America. Truly we had arrived in what must be cruising’s final frontier.
Forget the dinghy! It was hot and the water looked so cool and clear. We dove in and swam for the shore. We had stood on this beach before, but then it had been twenty-four years ago in 1977 when we had been on our honeymoon. That time we had stood here cold wet and disheveled, victims of an absurd and careless shipwreck. |
This time we had arrived more orderly, aboard our own chartered yacht, which if we pursue the Wild West analogy was our covered wagon. Little had changed on the island though. True, the main hotel complex extended further and had become a little grander, there were a few more bungalows and their thatched roofs had been renewed recently, but the basic concept of a beachside cabin on a Robinson Crusoe style island was still the same. Last time our boat had sunk after striking a coral reef and we had watched in horror as our brand-new suitcases filled with water and our beautiful camera, a wedding present, disappeared below the waves. This time we were laughing at the memory with our 21-year-old daughter, as we described our precipitous arrival all those years ago. “And all we wanted was to wash off all the salt. When I went into the bathroom I saw the staff had left an old bucket half full of water on the floor. I was so angry I kicked the bucket over and threw it outside. As I stood under the shower I realized I was washing in cold sea water, not fresh water” I explained. “Those were the days before desalination and fresh water had to be shipped in. It turned out the bucket had held our entire fresh water ration for the day!”
| We began to walk along the deserted stretch of soft white coral sand, a gentle breeze emolliating the heat. To our left, lofty coconut palm trees lurked, laden with fruit; to seaward, the calm, clear, water was a stunning light cobalt blue, stretching toward the reef. There the lagoon ended and the deep blue Indian Ocean began. As we tramped the sand, hermit crabs of every size scurried away from underfoot carrying their mobile shell homes with them. No, nothing had changed. |
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The Maldive Islands have always, because of our honeymoon, been special for us, but for anyone who seeks a get-a-way vacation in the tropical sun these are exceptional islands too. Here is the ultimate destination for the dedicated worshippers of sun, sand and sea, where the only activities are in, on or under the water. Our island circumnavigation completed, we swam out and re-boarded our yacht, for lunch on deck. Strange how a little exercise can wake up the taste buds and make you hungry, even if it was only a few hours since breakfast.
Giravaru Island Resort lies alone on the edge of Male’ Atoll. The island faces an expanse of deep water to the South and west. To the north and east lie uninhabited islands and hidden reefs. Despite this sense of remoteness, Giraravu is one of the more accessible of the resort islands as it is only a fifteen minute speed boat ride from Male’ or the island upon which the international airport is situated. Best of all Giravaru has safe secure marina style dockage and actively encourage visiting yachtsmen to take full use of the facilities that they have to offer. The resort is small, compact and self-sufficient. The simple accommodations have furnishings offering everything you might need. Well-planned meals are served buffet style in a large airy dinning room which has a thatched tented roof and open sides. There is a coffee shop for when you feel peckish and two shops selling holiday essentials as well as a good selection of local crafts and souvenirs. The island is well equipped with leisure facilities that include a small fresh water swimming pool, open-air bars, sailing craft and a very well equipped and expertly staffed PADI dive shop.
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This idyllic island chain spans the equator deep in the Indian Ocean. This island country consists of over 1190 coral islands set jewel like in a coral belt of 26 atolls stretching 540 miles from 7 06’N to 0 45’S In cruising terms they offer pioneering stuff. Many islands see just 10 or so cruising boats a year and there are some islands which have yet to encounter the splashing of a cruising boats anchor. Few words have been published about these delightful islands and some of them remain even yet, uncharted. |
Cruising here is not for the fainthearted. Coral reefs lie just below the surface scattered around the island chain. Many are easy to see and appear exactly where the chart states they will, other smaller outcrops of reef have built up around wrecks of former local craft which long ago hit an isolated coral head and sank. Do not try if you do not have a sense of adventure, nerves of steel and a jolly good pair of Polaroid sunglasses
The northern part of this country lies just 500 miles south west of Colombo in Sri Lanka. Visiting yachts preparing to cruise southwards should first make for the northern most principle island of Ugulu situated in the Raa atoll. Full customs and immigration do not exist in Ugulu and to obtain these every boat visiting the republics islands must eventually call at Male the country’s capital to complete the formalities. However, the local authorities in Ugulu are able to issue a cruising permit to visiting yachts allowing them to cruise southwards towards male’ enjoying the islands and their hospitality as they sail.
Of the 1190 known islands local residents inhabit 202. Some 20 or so are reserved for special needs such as industrial, use as a prison or as an airport or even as a waste disposal island. 82 islands have been designated as tourist resorts and that leaves well over 750 islands, which are therefore uninhabited. Many have their own lagoons with coral sand beaches with palm trees to the waters edge. Our own cruising was confined to just a couple of the more populated atolls but we enjoyed wonderful hospitality and discovered terrific anchorages.
The islands of the Maldive Republic lie in a 500-mile long chain of twenty-six separate atolls. Adding the landmass of these tiny islands together gives an area of just 115 square miles, yet the slender island chain spans some 35,000 square miles starting in 7 degrees north and terminating just south of the equator.
Each island is surrounded by crystal clear lagoons encrusted with reefs, which from aerial photographs look like pale blue spots on the skin of a dark blue leopard. No island is naturally more than 10 feet high and very few are heavily populated. |
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The Government has determinedly restricted tourism to Male’, the capital, and hotel-developed islands. The Maldivian inhabited fishing islands are partly closed to visitors to safeguard the islanders’ devout Muslim lifestyle. English is widely spoken and understood by most Maldivians, especially on the islands most tourists will visit.
Each hotel occupies a previously uninhibited island and most tourists are happy to remain on their resort island for their entire vacation except for scuba or fishing trips. With temperatures of around 85ºF, in and out of the water, most people are happy to laze out in the sun. Giravaru had the best of both worlds, Hotel marina, a PADI dive center plus a selection of water toys including jet skis, windsurfers, fast sailing catamarans and kayaks. The calm waters of the island lagoons gave us every opportunity to enjoy them all.
A visit to Male’, the island upon which the capital is located, was a must for us and definitely worth the trip. There is not a great deal to look at in the way of historical buildings or architecture and only one small museum. Frances, my wife and I enjoy ambling around the streets of far-flung outposts of civilization. We adore poking around in local markets shops and stores, it gives us such a wonderful insight into people and the way they live in a world somewhat alien to our own. The town of Male’ boasts paved roads with motor cars and trucks but bicycles outnumber motorized vehicles three to one and boats outnumber bicycles by four to one, they are the most important form of transport for this island nation.
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Our first stop was at the fish market, an all day affair, though busiest in the afternoon. Fish by the tray load and armful were brought in and dropped onto the tiled floor of the market where they lay, flapping about. Market traders sorted and graded them and almost before they had gasped their last, they were purchased product. In a section off to the side of the market groups of highly skilled tradesmen filleted fish on demand. Marlin, became steaks before our eyes and never before have I seen a tuna unzipped and cut into bone and skin free sections with such dexterity and speed. Fish trading is carried on at full volume and the whole area was filled with the melodic sound of Dhivhi, the local dialect.
A few moments walk away from the fish market is the produce market. Here tropical fruit is piled high into huge heaps set under make shift sun shelters. More sophisticated vendors have stalls set up in the covered section of the market. Wherever you go you are invited to try or taste produce. |
There really is nothing to compare to the taste of local banana ripened naturally on the tree before being cut off. Young green coconuts, with their tops lopped off before your eyes, provide a natural and delicious drink, a wonderful alternative to a can of soft drink. Mangoes, papaya and breadfruit are all proffered for tasting or inspection as you pass the colorful stalls. Not to be missed are the local sweetmeats and savories, all home made and nothing short of delicious. We were amused by, but did not sample the local cigarettes, at 50 cigarettes to the dollar, which appear to be very thin tubes of newsprint wrapped around small amounts of tobacco. Outside the market, large coils of coir rope and string, the by-product of coconut husks, could be found for sale and appear to be more important locally than duct tape, as the multi use fixative. Well away from the souvenir shops, I bought a sarong of the style worn by the local male population. At $3 I thought it an excellent keepsake of my time here and found it delightful to wear around the deck of the yacht. It has returned home with me as a great memory.
A local café smelled so great, that we stuck our heads around the doorway. Smiling faces and eager cheerful waves dragged us in and we were shown, with great pride, to a place of honor at a freshly scrubbed wooden table. Frances, was the only woman in sight but clearly very welcome. Plates of local delicacies, known colloquially as ‘small eats’ were placed before us and we eagerly tucked in, picking up each with our left hand as local custom dictated. Each plate was a wonderful concoction, though some were very spicy. Gulha are fish balls in which you can also detect onion, coconut, chili and ginger. Bajiyaa are cone shaped pastries of tuna with lemon grass. Once the savory dishes were demolished, it was time to move onto the sweet dishes of which there are plenty on offer. Coca Cola and local fruit juices push up the check to just under $5 for the two of us and we emerged from the café full and fascinated with our insight into local fare.
Outside of lagoons, waters are deep and bringing up the hook took a while. As it rose from the depths, so did our excitement. We were about to sail south to another island in another atoll. It was not that we had explored all the islands of our present atoll, though we had in fact anchored off many, with names as diverse and fascinating as Paradise, Bandos and Kuda Bandos.
Off Himmafushi we had seen several large beautiful charter yachts at anchor, playing host to hedonists such as ourselves. But now we had an invitation to accept at the southern end of South Male’ atoll.
Our voyage to the island of Rihiveli took us clear of North Male’ atoll through a channel passing the famous Club Med resort. The 20-knot breeze was aching to get at our sails. We motor sailed carefully through the channels between the subsurface reefs and once clear hoisted the headsail and set course for the island of Rihiveli. |
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In 1978 Frenchman Pitt Pietersoone and his lovely wife, Valerie found the island of Rihiveli and set about transforming it into a delightful beach resort. Now with their children nearing the age of secondary education they are moving back to Europe. Having sold the resort and groomed a new French manager Pitt wanted us to see it before he left. We arrived late one evening and anchored outside the lagoon. Next morning we understood why it is necessary to take the services of a local pilot to get through these reefs. Do not worry about the cost however it is all part of this resorts splendid service.
We arrived late off Rihiveli and anchored outside the lagoon. Early next morning we went ashore only to discover that it was already one and a half hours later than we thought. Rihiveli even has its own time zone designed to give its residents better use of daylight! Originally this was done because many guests had to catch early morning flights and a 6 am departure for the airport sounded much nicer than 0430. Actually it was also a good idea because the hottest time of day, 12 to 2, became an after lunch siesta time for everyone and as most people doze in the shade in their individual hammocks scattered under the trees, it helps reduce skin cancer in the long run.
The resorts simple format is a stunning success. It is a model of an environmentally friendly and caring management with a very strong French influence. It is a green island, in all senses of the word—the rich tropical landscape is beautifully maintained, tamed but not spoilt; the accommodation is uses local materials and natural breezes instead of air conditioning and imported products. There are no telephones, televisions or mini bars in the rooms. The resort’s simple format is a stunning success with everything, including use of the resorts yachts and other watercraft is free of charge. The only extras are diving and a bar check. Most of the staff is Maldivian and clearly very happy, as their long service records and friendly attitudes reveal. Whilst the island has the usual outer reef, its nicest feature has to be the lagoon on one side with its two outlying islands. These uninhabited islands can be reached by wading across the lagoon, where the water is never deeper than waist high, a distance of about a quarter of a mile—it makes a perfect after lunch activity, even for a naturally sedentary cruiser!
Rihivili’s dinning room is light and airy built on stilts over the water, open on all sides, with large circular tables. The French chef ensures every meal is a culinary delight whilst self-seating ensures you never get stuck with incompatible neighbors and was a lovely way of getting to meet others. Clearly influenced by cruise ship dinning, the European staff ate with the guests, making for a house party feel. Jugs of well-chilled desalinated water are proffered freely at every meal, instead of bottle water, to reduce the packaging that otherwise has to be disposed off. Garbage is a major problem in every island community, especially the poorer ones, without good disposal facilities.
After a glorious stay on Rihiveli it was time to head back to North Male’. Our last meal on the island was locally caught, tropical spiny lobsters baked in the oven and served with the chef’s own very special version of Thousand Island dressing. As I ate, I mused. Thousand-island salad dressing must have been named after somewhere, was it the Maldives? It is not that the dressing was invented here, nor is it even to be found in regular use so perhaps not, but the dressing is the perfect accompaniment to lobster, shrimp and seafood and the 1000 or so Maldive Islands are the perfect accompaniment to sun, sand and sea.
