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The British Virgin Islands are unlike any other Caribbean destination. If you are looking for natural beauty and seclusion, extremely friendly people, white sand beaches fringed by palms, some of the best snorkeling and diving spots in the Caribbean, a handful of line of sight islands – each with a different vacation experience- that are just made for island hopping aboard your yacht, and a low-key, relaxed laid-back atmosphere void of commercialism, than this is your ultimate vacation destination. Chances are if you are a charterer, you have been to the BVI before. If this is your first time, the staff at www.visailing.com will help you plan your entire sailing vacation. Either way, following are some insider tips for enjoying your Tortola charters.
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Ferries
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 | In order to begin your Tortola charters, you have to get there. The Tortola International Airport (actually located on Beef Island) is very small, and cannot accommodate full-size jets. Therefore, to reach the BVI, you will need to fly from your home city to San Juan, Puerto Rico and then take a connecting flight on a smaller aircraft to Tortola. An alternative option is to fly into and out of St. Thomas, USVI (which is probably the best way to make air connections with the best fares) and take a ferry across the waters to Tortola’s West End. Ferries regularly crisscross the waters of the Virgin Islands with several daily trips linking the USVI and the BVI. Frankly, taking a ferry is |
a great way to start your Tortola charters because it is part of the adventure. There is something magical about sitting up on the open-air upper deck and unwinding as you take in the turquoise blue waters, the beautiful coastline of St. John and the charm of entering Soper’s Hole in Tortola. The two most popular operators are Native Son and Smiths. You can find the schedule for both companies online or in your cruising guide. When you arrive at the ferry docks, the operators will try and encourage you to use their line. On a recent trip, one of the operators told us the other line was no longer running. Since both companies charge comparable rates and make the same run within a few minutes of one another, it does not matter which line you select. Buy a round trip ticket. It will save a few dollars. If you do opt to take a ferry from St. Thomas to Tortola, it is best to use the Red Hook ferry dock. Although the ferry dock in Charlotte Amalia is closer to the airport, it is old and crowded. Furthermore, the ferry trip to Tortola is longer and can get rough and uncomfortable as you pass around the point of St. Thomas. The Red Hook ferry dock is new and airy, and the trip is much more comfortable. The trip from St. Thomas from Red Hook to Tortola’s West End takes about 30 minutes. To get to Red Hook, however, you will have to take a cab (minivan) from the airport to the other side of St. Thomas. This is an adventure in itself, but hey, you are in the islands, so no worries!
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Local Transportation
To get from West End or the airport to your Tortola charters base, you have some options. You can rent a car. Be aware, however, that in the BVI, they drive on the left even though the steering wheel is often on the left as well; the roads are poorly paved; the hills are extremely steep; there are no sidewalks so people walk in the road; dogs, goats and chickens roam free, and well, you get the point. It is probably best not to hire a rental car. There is no real public transportation, so that essentially leaves taxis and safari buses or jitneys. Taxis in the BVI do not have fare meters, so be sure to agree upon the fare in advance. They usually charge a standard rate per person. The ride from either West End or Beef Island to Road Town usually is a $20.00 minimum or $8.00 per person. If you are using a charter broker, transportation to and from the ferry dock or airport can be prearranged and sometimes, the cost can even be included in the price of your Tortola charters. Another form of transportation is to hop on a safari bus or jitney and just pay for your transport between points. There does not seem to be a set fare for this mode of transportation. As long as you are not in a hurry, this is also a fun adventure. The driver will go off the main route to drop passengers home or at work, will pick up friends for free, and will even stop and talk to people. Just go with the flow and be charmed by the local culture and color. To pick up either a taxi or jitney, stand by the side of the road (remember- they drive on the left), point in the direction you want to go and look expectant!
Provisioning
If your Tortola Charters are crewed, skip to the next section, but if you are bareboating, you have either opted to use the services offered by the charter base or you will do your own provisioning. The stores within or near TMM and the Wickman Cay II complex (which includes the Moorings and Sunsail bases) are very limited and somewhat pricey. The better options in terms of quality, selection and price are Bobby’s Super Market in Road Town or the main Rite Way Food Market across the street from Wickman Cay II. You can arrange for a taxi to take you to either place, wait while you shop and return you to the base. Sometimes, if your charter is ready the night before you leave (i.e. cleaned up from the last group), you can ask if you can provision and store on board. This saves time in the morning so that you can just attend the chart briefing, check out and get an early start on your charter. If you wish to augment supplies along the way, the Harbour Market in Soper’s Hole offers a large variety of provisions, gourmet foods, liquor, beer and wine. Major items are also available in Cane Garden Bay, Trellis Bay, the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and Bitter End, but be prepared to pay a premium.
Water
Tap water is generally safe to drink in the BVI. You do not have to be worried about ice or the water in which salads have been washed. It is best, however, to consider buying water in 1 gallon bottles for drinking on your Tortola charters. Sometimes the water tanks onboard can get a slightly funky taste/smell. Use tank water for showers and cooking and drink bottled water. When you request water in most bars and restaurants, you will get a 500 ml bottle. If you do not drink it all, bring the rest aboard to drink later.
Restaurants
There are no franchises or popular chain restaurants in the BVI, so when it comes to dining, you will be experiencing restaurants owned and operated by resorts, hotels and individuals. You will find a delightful assortment of everything from romantic gourmet restaurants such as Brandywine Bay and Sugar Mill which offer an elegant dining experience, to homey, out of the way little hideaways tucked into the hills like Mrs. Scatliffe’s Restaurant, to friendly beachside shacks. For dining suggestions, be sure to pick up a free copy of The BVI Restaurant & Food Guide. It is available at most of the hotels, resorts and tourist destinations. It describes many of the popular restaurants on the islands with price ranges and sample menus. You should try the local fare such as rotis (a flat bread filled with chicken or meat with vegetables and chutney), conch, Anegada lobster and some of the local fresh fruits.
Money Matters
The currency in the BVI is the US dollar and no other currency is accepted. Banks are open Monday through Friday, from 9 am -3pm, although some may stay open until 5pm on Fridays. It is best to avoid the banks on Friday afternoons since the lines will be long with islanders cashing paychecks. ATMs are located throughout the BVI, including in several banks in Road Town, the Rite Way grocery in Purcell, East End, Soper’s Hole, West End, and two in Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda. Be aware that some of the ATMs have a daily withdrawal limit of US$200. Most places that deal regularly with tourists will accept major credit cards, but local bars and small local restaurants may only accept cash. Double check the payment method in advance. Some places only accept MasterCard or Visa, not American Express cards.
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| Shopping |
| If you are a true shopaholic, Tortola charters are probably not going to be your idea of a shopper’s paradise in terms of goods made in the BVI. You will find some small shops offering handicrafts, but most of the merchandise comes from elsewhere in the Caribbean. Try wandering around Crafts Alive, an area in Road Town established by the government to promote local handicrafts. In particular, check out Sunny Caribbee for local spices, sauces and condiments, and the HIHO brand clothing line. There are some talented artists in the BVI, so you might want to visit some of the galleries scattered around the islands. For a particularly interesting souvenir, get the BVI postage stamp. It is the only British Commonwealth stamp sold in a denomination of US currency. |  |
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Rum
Rum and Tortola charters seem to go hand in hand. Unfortunately, there are no longer any large scale distilleries in the BVI. Most cruisers on Tortola charters end up at a Pussers restaurant/bar at some point. Although it has a long history with the British Navy and their rum is the main ingredient in the Painkiller – a popular BVI drink- Pussers’ Rum is not actually distilled in the BVI. If you want to sample the local quaff, try the small Callwood distillery in Cane Garden Bay. Its all natural (meaning it is made from sugar cane rather than molasses) white rum is produced for local consumption. It comes out of the distillery at 140-150 proof and is aged to 80 proof. It will curl your toes! Another local producer on Tortola is Sebastian’s rum. Available in most bars around the islands, this rich rum is more like a liquor.
Cameras
If you plan to go snorkeling or scuba diving (how can you not on a Tortola charter?), be sure to bring a disposable waterproof camera so you can capture your underwater adventures. It is cheaper to bring a camera or two with you rather than purchase them in the BVI. A disposable waterproof camera in the US costs around $10 as compared to the BVI, where they run about $US20.
Welcome Magazine
Finally, upon arriving in the BVI, pick up a copy of The British Virgin Islands Welcome Tourist Guide. This free magazine is available at hotels, resorts, tourist attractions and a copy is often found aboard your Tortola charters. This information-packed full-color magazine offers timely details about everything happening in the BVI during your stay. You will find information about ferry schedules, restaurants, shopping, special events and other activities to enjoy while on your Tortola charters.
With over 60 islands, cays, bays and anchorages to choose from, there is no wonder the BVI is considered the sailing capital of the world. With line-of-sight sailing, picturesque coastlines with white sand beaches fringed by swaying palm trees, warm clear azure blue waters, and a laid-back atmosphere, Tortola charters make for idyllic sailing vacations. To learn more insider tips and book your Tortola charters, contact www.visailing.com. You will never take a land-locked vacation again!
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